It Starts With the Fabric.
Before a garment has shape, it has cloth. Fibre, weight, weave and finish determine how it drapes, breathes, holds structure and feels in wear.
What Gives Cloth Its Character.
Two fabrics can look similar from a distance and behave entirely differently once they are cut and worn. The difference often begins with four material decisions.
Fibre
Wool, cashmere, linen, silk and blends each bring different softness, resilience, breathability and lustre.
Weight
Weight changes drape, warmth and how much structure a cloth can comfortably carry.
Weave
The construction of the yarns influences texture, airflow, surface depth and the way a cloth moves.
Finish
Brushing, pressing and surface finishing shape the final hand, sheen and visual character of the cloth.
The Mills We Work With.
No single mill is right for every garment. Each house offers different ranges, fibres, weights and finishes. Working across them allows the cloth to be considered on its own merits, rather than by the name on the bunch.
Loro Piana
Wool, cashmere and natural-fibre blends, often characterized by a soft hand, fluid drape and smooth surface.
Scabal
Suiting and jacketing across worsteds, business cloths and more seasonal textures, colours and patterns.
Holland & Sherry
Worsteds, flannels and classic cloths across a broad range of weights, structures and finishes.
Vitale Barberis Canonico
Italian worsteds across a wide range of weights, weaves and finishes, including cloths suited to regular wear.
Caccioppoli
Seasonal suiting and jacketing with an emphasis on texture, colour and warm-weather fibres and blends.
Dormeuil
Worsteds and occasion cloths spanning different weights, finishes and degrees of lustre.
Piacenza 1733
Wool, cashmere and other fine-fibre cloths, particularly relevant to soft jacketing and outerwear.
Peek Inside the Library.
Our cabinets bring together suiting, jacketing, trousering and seasonal cloth from the mills we work with, ready to be compared side by side.
Some Differences Don’t Translate to a Screen.
Colour and pattern translate well to a screen. Weight, recovery, surface, drape and the way a cloth responds to light do not. Those differences are easier to judge with the bunches open on the table.
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